My Experience Of The Yukon, Canada

The Yukon, Canada

The Yukon is basically a territory or State in the North West of Canada. The territory is named after the Yukon river which gently meanders through. Except of course in winter when it stops flowing, more on that later. The Yukon is a massive place, almost the size of France. There are only 32,000 people living in the Yukon and 28,000 of them live in the capital city of Whitehorse. This really gives you an idea of how vast and remote the Yukon is. This is real hardcore wilderness.

In summer the Yukon is a massive playground which attracts thousands of tourists who are looking for adventure. The landscape is rutted with massive mountain ranges. The highest peak, Mount Logan reaching a staggering 19,551 feet! The area has many large lakes and hundreds of rivers mainly being fed by snow melt. People travel the rivers on canoe and kayak and camp out under the stars. The capital city swell in summer with tourists looking for adventure and fun. The city has a wonderful welcoming atmosphere and really does thrive on tourism.

My Experiences - A Very Cold Welcome

However I was there in January. And winter has a very different feel. When we got off the plane in Whitehorse we were welcomed by our guide for the week, Scott. Welcome to the frozen North were his first words. And he was not kidding! -25 was the temperature as we stepped out of the airport. Within a second the inside of my nostrils froze and I must admit I panicked slightly, much to the amusement of Scott. He assured me this was normal and I would get used to it. Its when you eyes freeze shut you need to worry he goaded. Our plan for the week was to spend five nights in a cabin on Lake Laberge which is about 50 miles North of Whitehorse. Then back into Whitehorse too spend two nights recovering in a hotel and then the flight back to Vancouver.

So Scott first of all took us into Whitehorse to pick up supplies. He took us to a large supermarket which had everything we would need in the food department. One thing to note about the Yukon is the prices. Most items were about 30% more expensive here than anywhere else in Canada. This is simply because they have to drive everything in, and most of us have seen the show 'Ice road truckers'! We also stopped of at the liquor store to get some beers in. Now this is one thing that really shocked us, beer is very very expensive! I would say almost three times as expensive as buying booze from the off licence in the UK. So our rather modest supply of beer came to over $100! Ouch!

Heading Out Into The Wilds

We left town and headed North. We were travelling on the famous Alaska highway, and wow, what a road. The scenery is breath taking, the road is just a long white sheet of ice. I could not get my head round how we were travelling at 50mph with no worries. Scott told up how you learn to drive on the ice and it just comes as second nature. Although this area has an average winter temperature of -18 it doesn't usually snow that much. They have about 3ft of snow in an average winter, which compared to areas of British Columbia is nothing! Scott was telling us that no matter how cold it gets people function, schools stay open, business run and people venture out quite happily. We were informed they had just had a foot of snow in the days leading up to our arrival, which was unusual but great news for us! The 6 mile track we had to drive down to our cabin was interesting. I have no idea how that van got through the snow!

Our cabins were so remote it was unreal. Ten miles to the nearest inhabited house, and that we were told was where to head if there was an emergency! Hmmmmm, that was a worry! There was no electricity in the cabins, no phone and no running water! Bliss! When we got to the cabin we were given a quick tour of the area. There were four cabins on site, although all were empty for the week we were there. We had a Sauna we could use and there was a wash room with showers that we were aloud to use once every other day, there was a generator we could use in there to charge things and have a hot shower! The two hot showers I had were one of the high lights of our stay! We had no inside toilet, just an outhouse, which was pretty cold! So after our brief explanation of how everything works Scott left us, he would be back in three days to take us snowmobiling, until then, we were on our own!

Our cabin was very basic but very nice. A small area downstairs that contained two chairs and a table, a little kitchen unit, a bed and most importantly a massive wood burner! Then there was a ladder leading to a small platform upstairs where there was a mattress, this was to be by bed for the next five nights. We had a few oil lamps which Scott had showed us how to use, hed showed us how the cooker worked and where to get our wood for the fire from. There were basic utensils in the drawers, simple plates and few cups and glasses. All very cheap and cheerful but fine for what we needed. There was a selection of books to read, I imagine people had just left these behind having read them as there was a really wide variety of titles. The cabin felt very homely and super cosy, just what we needed.

The Scenery & Wildlife

The five days we spent exploring the area were so magical. We were on the side of Lake Laberge which is a massive lake that runs for 30 miles. The lake was frozen solid so we were able to walk on it no problems. The beauty of the place was amazing. When the sun came out the place came alive, the views were stunning, the cold was not a problem when we wrapped up warm, and the quiet was simply deafening! I could not get my head round the fact that there was no one within miles of us! It was pure wilderness! At one point when carrying a pan through the trees back to our cabin I was giddy with how alone we were. I got a stick and starting banging my pan and singing at the top of my voice, nobody would hear me, so it didnt matter how out of tune I was! I didnt care! All around the hills were covered in trees which all sagged from the weight of the snow, the mountains were spectacular and really impressive and the whole scene just looked like it had been put there out of someones imagination.

The nature in the area was something else. Admittedly we only saw a few birds and a squirrel. In winter we were told the chances of seeing anything of note was slim. But while we were out with Scott he showed us the tracks of a pack of wolves, a moose, lynx, cougars and a few other things I would have loved to have seen. On our second day out me and Tom had seen some really big footprints and we had decided it was a bear! When we were with Scott we showed Scott the prints and asked what they were, two rabbits he told us. We decided to keep it to ourselves what we had previously thought! We were also informed there were actually many bears in the area, including some pretty nasty Grizzlies, but in winter they are all fast asleep and are no threat, unlike the rabbits! However in summer a shotgun is a good idea when you are out and about! We were told of a man nearby who had been killed going to the toilet, this meant every time nature called I was a little on edge!

Activities

To fill our days we had a few activities planned. We went snowshoeing for an afternoon. This was hard work but easier than tramping through the snow with just normal boots on. I think the hardest part was actually putting the shoes on, we opted for the old fashioned ones that look like tennis rackets. They are quite tricky as you have to get your foot hooked into place and then wrap the chords over your feet. When you are walking you need to imagine you are John Wayne and walk with you your feet very wide apart, its tricky to get the hang of but when mastered you soon get used to it. If you ever get the chance to give this a try I would say its well worth it as it is quite a fun experience.

We also did a day of dog sledding which was wonderful. Scott had booked this for us and Ned and Janine arrived one morning to take us out for the day. We were given a sled each and a team of six dogs. After a quick lesson on how to control the dogs we were off speeding along the lake. One thing to mention about this is how cold it was! With a gentle breeze the wind chill just plummets and it really did feel cold. Our dog sledding lasted about five hours which included stopping for some lunch. Janine made us a fire and we sat round warming ourselves and cooking hot dogs. One thing I learned is that singing to your dogs actually encourages them to run faster. I was in a great mood and a long way from our guides or my friend Tom so I assumed nobody could hear me, I merrily sang away for quite a while. When we stopped Janine came over and told me she had enjoyed my singing, I was mortified to discover she had some how managed to hear me over the drone of her snow mobile. She lau ghed but said when she is out with her dogs she sings to them and this encourages them and keeps them focused! So there you go, Andys top tip of the day! All in all this was a magical experience and one I would strongly recommend!

We also did a few tours on the Snowmobiles. Scott returned with his friend Kirk to take us out. Kirk is a legend in the area, he is a bush man who works in TV. He has filmed with the BBC, and recently took Bear Grills out to help him put a show together. He had some great stories. The snowmobiling was amazing. The first day we did it we had a quick practice out on the lake to get us used to the machines and then we were off on the trails. Flying through the trees at nearly 30mph is pretty intense. We were told to go at a speed we felt comfortable with but we tried to keep up with Scott for the most part, and wow they get some speed on those things! Our tops speed was 45mph out on the lake, but Kirks machine got up to over 100mph! These are some serious toys that can be great fun!

We also did a late night tour on the snowmobiles. This was to see the Northern Lights which was a big reason for being there. More on that in a bit! We again went on to some of the trails and it was so exciting flying through the trees in the dark. We also went out onto the lake, at one point we were all stood on the ice looking up at the stars. Shushhhh said Scott. We both froze. Listen. We heard what sounded like distant thunder, a soft rumble, then a crack and another deep rumble. What is it? we asked in unison. Its the ice cracking beneath us. I nearly wet myself! I was convinced I was about to be swallowed forever in the frozen waters below my feet. However Scott assured us this was normal and there was no danger, the ice shifts around and makes strange sounds. We experienced this again on another occasion, and I must admit it still felt very unnerving.

While we were out with Scott he took us right down the lake to a small hamlet. He said he had some friends there he hadn't seen in ages. 'Want to experience some Yukon hospitality?' he asked us. We shrugged, it was 11pm! We came off the lake and into someones yard. The lights were on so Scott went and knocked. He waved us over and we were welcomed by an grinning lady, Irene. She asked us in and sat us down with her husband Gus. She took our coats and gloves, boots and outer shells and warmed them by the fire. Then Gus got out his Whisky, Irene made us fried egg butties and gave us the tour of the house. We were there till 1am! These were some of the nicest friendliest people I had ever met. After stuffing us with fruit cake they said there goodbyes and told us to visit anytime. After five glasses of Whisky I was a little worried about the 15 mile ride home, but the cold air soon sobered me up and Scott kept the speeds down.

There are plenty of other activities you can get involved in while you are in the Yukon. In the winter you can go skiing or snowboarding, there are a few decent resorts in the area that are well worth a visit. In summer you can go hiking, or canoeing down the rivers or lakes. Taking a guide on anything like this is highly recommended as its so easy to get lost and the threat from bears is very real. If you are feeling plush you can charter a plane. This is something we would loved to have done but could not afford, you can do day trips over the mountains and up to Alaska, some of the sight are supposedly stunning and if you do have the money it is well worth getting involved in this.

The Elusive Aurora

Our experience of the wilderness of the Yukon was simply perfect, except for one small detail! One of the big pulls to the area had been the world famous Aurora or Northern Lights. The Yukon is one of the best places in the world to see the displays. Mid winter is the best time and we even picked a week when there was no moon in the sky to improve our chances. However we were disappointed. We had a few clear nights and when we were out on the lake Scott showed us a faint green glow on the horizon, but certainly nothing to get excited about. This year (2009/2010) had been one the worst on record for activity. The lights run on an eleven year cycle, we were told that 2012 was going to be the best year for some time for activity. Many people go to the Yukon just for the lights, I'm so glad we did so much more while we were there. Even though we were disappointed it does give us a reason to go back!

There are several companies in the Yukon that offer Aurora tours. Most of these run from the town of Whitehorse. You can go out for a few hours or you can go out for a few days. These trips range in price depending upon what your after, some offer stay overs in massive cabins with lots of luxury. Some are just camping out beneath the stars. There are lots of different options to suit different needs and budgets. To be honest though, if the Aurora is in full flow, all you need to do is go out and look up! This is certainly the cheapest option!

Goodbyes

After our five nights in the cabin we returned to Whitehorse. Before we went into town Scott took us back to his house to meet his family. We spent an hour chatting with his wife and kids while we had some lunch. Again the hospitality of these people amazed me! That afternoon Kirk took us on an amazing snowmobile ride up into the mountains. We reached the top of a 5000 ft peak! The views were not great as the clouds were down but we covered nearly 40 miles in that afternoon and saw some more of the amazing Yukon scenery. Kirk was constantly stopping to tell us things about the area and tell us his amusing stories.

I was genuinely sad when we had to say our goodbyes to Scott and Kirk. They had made us feel so welcome and I think they had enjoyed spending time with us as well. We were told we simply must return in the summer and have a go at tackling the Yukon river. Another wonderful experience we were told was not to be missed. Both me and Tom said we would love to return on day be it in winter or in the summer.

The last two days of our trip were in Whitehorse itself which I won't go into detail about as I have already done a separate review on Whitehorse. So check that out if your interested. Other places of note in Yukon are pretty limited. Dawson City lies way to the North and sits near the border of Alaska. This only has a population of about 1000 and is really just an old Gold Rush town. Other than that the Yukon is a vast untamed wilderness.

How to Survive

Here is an idea of what you need to stay warm in the winter conditions that we experienced. I wore a nice thick pair of thermal pants, and then a thick pair of snowboarding pants over the top. On top I wore a thermal vest top, a thick T-shirt, a thin jumper, a thick jumper and then a big snow boarding coat. On my head I wore a balaclava, a small beanie hat and then a big hat that came down over my ears and neck. On my feet I had a thin pair of socks, some big think walking socks and then some fur lined winter boots. I wore a thin pair of gloves followed by a big thick pair. And then I put some gaiters over the top of my boots and pants. Getting dressed was quite a hassle, but we were never cold when we were out, this is something you must get right in the Yukon. If you get cold when you out you can end up dead, thats how serious it is!

When venturing out we also took a rucksack with plenty of food and hot drinks in. We also carried matches and paper to start a fire if needed. Be both carried a plastic survival bag, these are high visibility and do keep you a little bit warmer, they fold down neatly and just sit in the bottom of your pack. We also kept spare hats, gloves and other cloths just in case we got cold. A knife and basic medical pack is essential and the ability to use it, if you break your leg out here your on your own! We also took our head torches and plenty of spare batteries. Even though these things seem pretty simple they could end up saving your life.

Fancy A Go Yourself?

If this has inspired you to visit the Yukon then Ive obviously done my job well! But how exactly do you go about getting there? Well to get to the Yukon you would have to fly into Whitehorse like we did. However there are no flights from the UK direct. We first went to Vancouver and then got another flight using a company called Air North. You can also fly from Calgary to Whitehorse. Flights to Vancouver cost us around 450 and then another 210 to fly from Vancouver up to Whitehorse. I imagine the prices are similar if you go via Calgary. So it is by no means a cheap place to visit. One thing I would love to try is driving. Flying to Vancouver then driving up through British Columbia and up into the Yukon. The drive is almost a thousand miles but is through some of the most impressive mountain scenery anywhere on the planet! This would be a great drive in the summer, you may struggle in the winter but roads are usually kept open no matter what the weather. There used to be a train that went up to Whitehorse but this has not been running for many years and there was simply no demand.

Overall Impressions

Overall you can probably guess how I feel about the Yukon. It was simply the most wonderful experience of my life. The memories I have from that week are second to none, the photos I took were stunning and every aspect of the trip was just so enjoyable. The people are the friendliest Ive ever met, I made lots of new friends who I would love to go back and visit. The wildlife is diverse and exciting, the prospect of seeing wolves and bears constantly had me excited. The scenery was breath taking, I have tried to give you an idea of what we experienced but sometimes its hard to put things like this into words. You simply have to see it to believe it.

The Yukon is one of the worlds great wilderness playgrounds. It can be a dangerous and harsh environment, but if you take precautions and be sensible it can be one of the most exciting places on earth to visit. It you are the adventurous sort then this is somewhere I strongly recommend. I realise its not for everyone, but if you want some where wild and remote and full of adventure then the Yukon is ideal. Go and experience some true wilderness, head North, head to the Yukon!

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